2007-05-21 10:29 pm (UTC)
But what does it all mean?
Too much time on your hands.. :)
You can buy wall-plugin analzers (ask Dan, he had one I think) that will measure power consupmption on a per-outlet basis (it just fits between the wall and what you plug into it).
There are too many variables (water pumps, etc) going on in your house to make reading the box itself worth anything. Its like measuring output down to a teaspoon accuracy out of a firehose. Buy one of those per-outlet voltage meters before you go crazy. :)
Oh, turn your A/C and Dryer on at the same time and watch that sucker spin..
2007-05-21 11:14 pm (UTC)
There are too many variables (water pumps, etc) going on in your house to make reading the box itself worth anything.
I turned the heat/air/fan off. No washer/drying running. No running running, so septic pumps aren't running.
What else would there be that isn't a constant?
And I do want to see how much the washer/dryer cost, to see if me outsourcing my laundry to alabastercleaners.com actually makes sense or not. (not that I'd stop doing it... it's too convenient. :P)
Your overall house usage could vary based on entirely unrelated things. Don't use this meter to measure anything, go buy one of these
The dials usually give you electricity usage in kilowatt-hours, and you read them most significant digit at left by noting down the number the needle has just passed. Note that some of the dials turn counter-clockwise. On the picture, the reading is something like 30460.
The spinning disc at the bottom will be x watt-hours per revolution. Looking at wikipedia a common value is 7.2, but it may say on the meter itself.
Or you can buy a watt-meter (marketed as "Kill-a-watt" or similar) and measure stuff that way.
damn beaten to it!
Add another vote here for a pass-through meter (such as the kill-a-watt) as you can plug specific devices into it and see which is pulling the most power and how much you can drop.
You can actually get meters now that have a separate handheld terminal that shows you your energy usage in various user-friendly formats. Mine has an ethernet cable that's patched through to some equipment elsewhere in the building that uploads my usage to the utility company for billing and diagnostics.
From the left, each dial reads a significant digit. When it's between two numbers, use the lowest. So the first digit is 3, then next is 0, etc, until you have 30460 Kilowatt hours.
If you go back to the leftmost digit, you'll see it reads just a shade over 3, which would be 30000 kwh plus a bit. The next digit is just over 0, so you're still at 30000. The next one is just over 4, which increases the accuracy to 30400. The next one is just about on 6, so you have 30460 kwh. The trick when the dial points close to 0 is to see if it's just over or just under. If it's just under, the next digit should be 8 or 9, if it's just over, the next digit will be 1 or 2.
Write down the numbers on the dials, then check again in 24 hours. Has the rightmost dial moved about 2½? If so, the spinning disk makes one turn every watt-hour while the rightmost dial moves one number every kilowatt-hour. If you use a watt-hour every 34.4 seconds, that's 2.54 kilowatt-hours per day. Multiply by the $/KWH figure from your electrical bill to find out how many dollars per day that is.
If the disk spins more slowly when the Mac mini is sleeping vs. when it is turned off, something has gone wrong with your test. Maybe your fridge turned itself on during the test and screwed up the numbers?
If the disk spins 11.9% faster when the Mac mini is active vs. when it is sleeping, then the Mac is using 0.30 KWH/day, which means it is using about 12 Watts continuously. That sounds awfully low for an active computer.
Using a walkie-talkie, you can watch the meter while someone turns on a 60-watt lightbulb. Such a bulb uses 60 watt-hours in a hour, or 1 additional turn of the watt-hour spinner every minute.
2007-05-21 10:58 pm (UTC)
Your mac-mini accounts for 11% of your total "average" power consumption?... wow that seems ridiculously high.
2007-05-21 11:18 pm (UTC)
Not average. But perhaps 11% of my constant regular background power consumption (servers/appliances which are always on). I currently have all my lights, washer/dryer, etc all off.
The Dial Meter.
On a dial meter there are five dials, numbered 0 through 9, with the 0 at the top. You'll notice that the numbers go around the face clockwise on some dials, but counterclockwise on every other dial.
Read the dials from left to right. When the pointer lies between two numbers, record the smaller number. If the pointer is directly on a number, look at the dial to its immediate right. If that pointer has not passed zero, write down the smaller number.
Just subtract the previous reading from the new reading, and you will know how many kilowatt hours you have used.
This meter is reading 81384.
ALSO, i bought one of these recently and found it to be very useful:
The Kill-A-Watt allows you to connect your appliances and assess how efficient they are. A large LCD display counts consumption by the Kilowatt-hour, just like utility companies. You can figure out your electrical expenses by the hour, day, week, month, even an entire year. Monitor the quality of your power by displaying Voltage, Line Frequency, and Power Factor.
i've used it to measure all the computer systems i have, and calculate how much money they cost me a month, it's very enlightening!
We have one of these available for general use in the Cernio colo cabinets. Brad, I'll send you the info you need to borrow it from the colo.
Buy the pro version of the Kill-A-Watt, has a nice RS232 interface.
I wrote some scripts for handling the data a while ago, as the company has the RS232 protocol docs on their site (the version in the docs is slightly outdated, but the only added datafield in mine was Hz).
We used it when we we suspected a PSU of doing weird things over a long time period but couldn't prove it. (Logging interval of 1 second, with reports of how many times in that second power cut out, and the min/max power factor during that second, and more).
I don't know if its negligible or not, but depending on the distance of wire between your meter and your mac, you could burn more electricity in one spot in your home vs another (loss to resistance).
I remember enough that it can be a problem, not enough to remember if its a _real_ problem.
Lucky chump with a house meter to measure :P
Perhaps you want something like PowerTOP
Well, at least for the computers.
2007-05-22 04:26 am (UTC)
Yes, been playing with that since it was released. Upgraded my laptop VMs to a dyntick CONFIG_NO_HZ kernel to save battery life.
Just start burning stray cats to power your house.